Geography 323 -- Geomorphology

Coastal Geomorphology

Shorezone


Swell


Surf



Wave erosion and sediment transport

Erosional proceses

hydraulic action
force of waves and trapped air
rock is plucked from headlands
attrition
reduction of particle size as clasts bounce in the surf
abrasion (corrasion)
erosion as clasts as cast against headlands

Longshore drift


Controls on wave erosion

  1. sea floor geometry


  2. storm surges


  3. seismic (not tidal) waves


  4. tides

Sea (lake) level change


Subaerial weathering and erosion



Erosional Landforms


  1. shore (wave-cut) platform


  2. sea caves and wave-cut notches


  3. sea stacks and arches



Depositional Landforms


  1. beach


  2. barrier bars


  3. beach ridges


  4. spit


  5. baymouth bar


  6. tombolo


  7. intertidal mud flats and marshes


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